Posts Tagged ‘Mountaineering’

Xplorer - New Ultralight Scramble Boot from LaSportiva

Friday, August 17th, 2012

July 19, 2012 - After a couple of hikes I think I’m ready to commit to a long day out with this new shoe from LaSportiva. My sense is the Xplorer is going to be a nice ultralight scramble boot, or approach shoe. I am really appreciating the lacing system. I am able to have them firm where I want, and less so at the toes or elsewhere.

I generally lace them a bit loose, and without the top boot hook for uphill on trails. For descents, or off trail, scrambling, and climbing I snug them up appropriately. The shoe closes around my foot like a glove

Most likely I will still choose a more rugged and protective boot for serious back country trips like the Pickets or similar, but the Xplorer should be nice for many fast and light missions. The Thunder, also from LaSportiva is currently my rugged light weight boot of choice. A boot with a very generous and roomy toe box.

Photo: John Scurlock

July 25, 2012 – The Xplorers took me up and down Mt. Stuart last Sunday. 15.5 hours round trip from the Ingalls Lk. / Long’s Pass Trailhead, with 7,000′+ elevation gain and loss. The trip starts with several miles of trail up to Ingalls Pass. Followed by a couple miles of snowfields and off trail travel leading to the mountains west ridge. The next 2,000′ is scramble rock climbing to a point where we roped up for several pitches of mid 5th class. For this section, I added a pair of socks and snugged up the laces a bit. The Xplorer’s climbed really well, and it was nice not having to carry a second pair of (rock) shoes.

The long descent from the summit would be a big test, with 4’500′ of foot torture known as Cascadian Couloir. Scrambling leads past the false summit to a very steep snowfield with nasty runout above rocks. I used the Grivel Air Tech Light crampons and one trekking pole that fits inside my pack for the snowfield. Then it was talus, scree, and steep loose footing seemingly forever. A quick stop at Ingalls Cr. was followed by 1,500′ of ascent to Long’s Pass, and then a final 2,500′ of steep trail down to the car.

Mission accomplished. I like these shoes!

Ready for the descent

Jim Nelson

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New Carabiner from Petzl

Wednesday, March 9th, 2011

For many of us, one of the nicest carabiners of all time was the Petzl Spirit. Introduced in 1991 the Spirit was loved for it’s key-lock (hook free) design, and strong but easy gate action. My 20 year old Spirits have retained their great “action” to this day.

Introducing the Ange S. Much anticipated, delayed, and well worth the wait.

When petzl introduces a new product they do their homework. No rushing to market until everything is just right. Seven years in the making, but what a beautiful looking carabiner. When a company spends 7 years on development we think they’re worth a look. Two sizes Ange S (Also Available in Orange) 28 grams with 23mm gate opening, and Ange L 34 grams with 26mm gate opening. Ange L is expected later this year.

How to they perform in the real world? You will be the one to decide that. Come by Pro Mountain Sports for a look and touch.

Ange S - Gray, Orange.

Ultra-light, compact carabiner with MonoFil Keylock system.

Ange S

ANGE FINESSE

Quickdraws with ultra-light ANGE carabiners

10 cm Quickdraw with Ange S on top and bottom.

17 cm Quickdraw with Ange S on top, and Ange L on bottom (coming soon).

Finesse with Ange

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NEW TREKKING POLES from BD & Grivel

Friday, February 11th, 2011

LIGHT AND PACKABLE - 3 Models from Black Diamond, and one model from Grivel

The benefits of using trekking poles are long…But these poles get short!! Really short!! Half the length of what was called compact last year. If you don’t like using your poles uphill then put these in your pack. You want to have one just to help you on those thin ledges or to set up your tent?? Don’t sweat the lightweight. Wanna keep your knees on the downhill?? These will help your aging joints.

Better yet gone are the days of an adjustable pole that never stays the right length. Whether you want fixed or adjustable these poles pull together in a snap and will take you miles.

BD Distance and Grivel Himalaya

New Poles at Pro Mountain Sport

BD Distance BD Ultra Distance BD Distance FL

Grivel Himalaya

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CRAMPON TIPS FROM DANE BURNS

Thursday, January 20th, 2011

If you are an alpine climber and haven’t checked out Dane Burns blog it’s well worth the time. I always learn something, and when I saw the recent post about crampon fitting I wanted to know more. Dane Burns is a long time climber with a passion for snow and ice climbing and the equipment that makes it possible. Here Dane shares his thoughts on how Pro Mountain Sports can help.

When I go shopping for climbing gear these days it is easy to totally ignore many of the retail stores in the Seattle area.

The knowledge base and customer service of the big guys in town is generally zip. A 10% dividend and a 100% refund on your purchase doesn’t mean much if the sales person sold you the wrong piece of gear for your intended purpose and you find that out your first time out.

That 100% satisfaction guarantee doesn’t mean much when you are hours from a trail head or worse yet, in the middle of a climb.

It isn’t a issue of money. It is an issue of time. Most of us don’t get to spend that much time in the mountains anyway. Having a trip spoilt by the wrong gear can be really disappointing.

I really like alpine and ice climbing. The best thing you can do to improve and be more comfortable while climbing on ice is have the proper boots required, a great fit for your foot and just as important the right crampons, fit perfectly. I have been playing at it a long time, but with the multitude of new boots and new crampons available no way anyone out side the industry can keep up with them all. Long gone are the days of one choice in boots and maybe two crampons suitable for climbing hard ice.

Both boots and crampons get more specialized every season.

I like to pinch my pennies. I don’t like buyer’s remorse and like even less making a silly mistake purchasing expensive gear. Both of which I have done more than once.

There are a few guys and gals in the climbing industry that I’ll ask for advice. All of them have long and successful alpine climbing careers. Few of them work in retail. Jim Nelson at Pro Mountain Sports is one guy who’s advice I take to heart every time. Jim’s knowledge is based on hard won experience and wanting the best gear for his own adventures. Adventures as good, and as difficult, as it gets. Trips where success or failure could turn on his own choices in gear.

Classic example of that kind knowledge and decision making is the many different styles of crampons PMS carries in inventory. Not every crampon is suitable for every climb or for every boot. You ( or I ) really need someone to help us through the boot fitting process and then the crampon available to fit that boot. The bigger stores don’t offer that kind of service and Internet sales are likely to miss the mark by a mile as get any where close.

The last step in customer service for boots and crampons is having a place indoors at the store to test both the boots and the crampons strapped on for fit. Plywood in this case instead of hard ice. Same results though. I’ve spent literally hours fitting my own crampons. The crew at PMS will first fit your boots, then suggest the crampons that best fit your choice in boots and finally will hand fit those crampons as required, generally while you wait.

Trust me the drive to PMS is worth the time and effort. In the long run you’ll be way ahead in your own climbing using properly fit gear. The time and effort involved in getting it right the first time is priceless. If you want that kind of service to be available and more importantly, stay available, you need to support your local retailers with the willingness and knowledge base.

Dane Burns

Cold Thistle Blog

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NEW CASSIN & CAMP ICE TOOLS

Wednesday, January 12th, 2011

Riccardo Cassin dominated the 20th century with his big mountain conquests. From the Cassin Ridge on Denali to the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV in the Karakoram. Cassin was standing on top of the world. Starting in 1947 as a way for him to have the highest grade lightweight gear of his own design. Cassin turned to the company that had been making climbing equipment since 1889 CAMP. It was a match made in heaven and the marriage was made official in 1997 with CAMP’s purchase of Cassin.

Cassin X - All Mountain

Available for DEMO at Pro Mountain Sports

It is here. The new Cassin X-All Mountain Tool. After three years of research and development in close cooperation with our athletes, we are proud to release a tool that incorporates the many aspects of the CAMP Awax climbers have come to love while improving on other elements along the way. The Awax was well known for its ability to generate solid sticks from a single soft swing. This was a marvel of engineering as the Awax was also the lightest technical ice tool on the market. The solid sticks were the result of a perfectly balanced head and aggressive pick. The pick was probably the most notable part of the Awax. Its aggressive beak, thin profile and optimized tooth configuration were a refreshing alternative to the blunt picks found on many new ‘mixed tools’ that seemed to climb rock fine, but either bounced off or broke ice especially on lower angle or brittle ice routes.

The All Mountain Tool incorporates our new All Mountain Pick, a near replica of the Awax pick optimized for the new X-series shafts which feature a slightly different curve pattern. With the All Mountain Pick, the All Mountain Tool has a very similar swing to the Awax, penetrates ice just as well, grips rock with equal aplomb, but then goes further with a system of interchangeable grip and head components that ultimately give the All Mountain Tool its name.

Ian Osteyee, one of the leading ice climbers in the Adirondacks and Erik Weihenmayer’s personal guide, was integral to the development of the All Mountain Tool. He entered the project with the belief that a single tool could truly handle all of the various ways we use ice axes on big alpine routes. At that point, the closest thing he had found was the CAMP Awax, but it was still lacking in certain ways. He found he had to optimize the handle with grip tape and some manipulations with a router to get the comfort he was looking for. He also had to jimmy with aftermarket pommel attachments to create a second pommel for leashless climbing. One thing he never had to futz with, though, was the pick. When Ian saw the modular systems of the Cassin X-Dry, X-Ice and X-Alp tools, he likened it to the Holy Grail. When he realized the head components (pick and hammer/adze) were separate, he knew this was a winning combination if the pick could be optimized for performance equal to the Awax. That was the last part of our development and after much early-season field testing, we have succeeded.

To Awax lovers, we can say sincerely that the new X-All Mountain Tool from Cassin is the new Awax. For ice climbers who have experienced the frustrations of pick bounce, ice bashing and shoulder fatigue common with the more aggressive ‘mixed tools’ now so popular on the market, we encourage you to swing the new All Mountain Tool. The Awax was routinely the favorite at ice festivals featuring demo tools from all the major brands. Its modest design and optimized pick angle created a tool that truly climbed all angles of ice with exceptional performance. In this way, it created many converts and took on a cult-like identity. With the new interchangeable grips, and the separate head components, the All Mountain Tool goes one step beyond to produce an axe that not only climbs all angles of ice with consistent grace, but can be modified quickly and easily for leashless configurations, dry-tooling, even lower angle glacier routes.

In Ian’s words, “No longer will you have to change tools and get used to your alpine tool’s swing, or get caught in an unexpected tricky, technical situation with your non-technical tools. The All Mountain Tool can handle everything you throw at it.”

Features

- Optimized pick angle and tooth configuration climbs all angles of ice and rock.

- Interchangeable head components make switching between an adze and hammer or replacing picks simple and affordable.

- Interchangeable grips come in three varieties for leashless, leashed and alpine or snow climbing. They all bolt onto the shaft with one screw and because of their dual density molded construction, they dampen vibrations and insulate remarkably well.

- The spike is large enough to grip on low angle glacier ice and has a hole large enough to clip a carabiner for use with lanyards.

- The All Mountain Tool is ultimately a combination of the best elements from the Cassin X-Dry, X-Ice and X-Alp tools (aggressive shaft curve, hammer head, double-pommel grip, large spike) with an upgrade to the All Mountain Pick that optimizes the tool for Awax-like performance.

Available for DEMO at Pro Mountain Sports

CAMP AlpAx Special

The AlpAx is a great technical tool for the advanced alpinist. The shaft features our patented Hand Rest® system that quickly adapts the tool to the terrain. For general mountaineering, the lower shaft is smooth and straight so that it plunges easily into snow. When steep ice is encountered, slide the red hand grip up and swing out the hand rest for vertical climbing. The AlpAx Special is unique that it can be changed quickly and easily while climbing as necessary.

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WOOL FROM MONTBELL

Friday, January 7th, 2011

Mid-Weight Zip Neck

For 10+ years Pro Mountain Sports has been touting the benefits of wool. Over those years we have seen people turn their nose up at it to now burying their nose in it. Why?? Well, like all great things what goes around comes around. Users are finally seeing, feeling and smelling how nice Merino Wool is.

Light-Weight Round Neck

What is it that make it do what it does??

Unlike synthetic fibers wool absorbs and truly wicks sweat and moisture. Keeping you drier. When you are dry you are warm when it is cold and cool when it is hot.

Wool also has some great antibacterial properties too. The little beasties that make all your plastic long underwear stink up a storm hate living on wool. No stinky bacteria means no stinky outdoor adventures.

But will it shrink??

Not much. You can wash Montbell Merino wool just like you wash your favorite pair of jeans. Put it in the washer add some mild detergent and go. It is best to dry flat. It will only shrink 5% if at all. Unlike that sweater your grandma gave you when you were 8.

Montbell’s wool comes in three weights.

Light Weight 130 g/M 92% Super Merino Wool

Mid Weight 185 g/M 100% Super Merino Wool

Expedition Weight 300 g/M 85% Super Merino 15% Nylon (Interior is 100% Super Merino wool)

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New DRAGON Cams from DMM

Friday, September 17th, 2010

Dragon (L) BD C4 (R)

The much anticipated DMM Dragons have finally crawled from the crags of Wales and landed on our shores ready to scorch cracks.

What makes these Dragons breathe fire??

Colors

After years of climbers having to deal with each company having their unique color schemes DMM has done away with that and sided with BD as being the standard.

Sizes

Like colors each company had their own sizing. Dragons are Double-Axle which gives them the same range as BD. This means that climbers can grab a red Dragon and know what size it is.

This does not mean that Dragons are simply BD cams.

They are Lighter!!

Dragons weigh up to 17 grams less than their BD counterpart. A savings of 58g across the whole range. How do those crazy Welshmen do that?? Well, they hot forge the lobes which allows them to take out more material.

Extendable slings.

Not only are Dragons lighter but you can save even more weight by carrying less. Since the Dragons use a sling that can be pulled out to a full 10″. Meaning you don’t have to have as much webbing, draws, biners, and other stuff. Clip and go!!

• Hot forged cams that combine lightness with strength.
• Twin axle design for extended expansion range and smooth action.
• Constant 13.75° camming angle.
• Extendable 8mm dyneema sling.
• Strong springs help create a stable placement that resists walking.
• Moulded ergonomic trigger bar.
• Replaceable trigger wire system.
• Colour coded for easy size recognition.
• Anodised cams for corrosion prevention.

On top of that you get the same CE, UIAA, 3Sigma safety you have come to expect from the forge at DMM.

All of this comes together to make a cam that shows great promise and we look forward to hearing from you and what you think of Dragons from DMM.

“After including them on a few climbs, they are starting to feel very comfortable in our hands. We are really liking the adjustable length sling .”- Adam & Jim

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Revised Nomics and Quarks from Petzl

Thursday, September 16th, 2010

As everyone knows the ice season can be short and fickle.

Ice climbing season has arrived!

Quark / Nomic Hammer

Be ready to send with the new Nomic and Quark from Petzl.

In stock now at Pro Mountain Spots.

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New Ice Axes for Classic Mountaineering

Thursday, September 9th, 2010


Two exciting new ice axes from Grivel Italy. The acclaimed Air Tech Evo is now offered with a Carbon composite shaft Air Tech Carbon, and the odd looking Futura. First the Air Tech Carbon, dropped forged from a single piece of the finest steel, essentially Grivel’s finest, strongest, high performance, classic ice axe. The carbon composite adds insulation, and a new level of dampening and balance. T rated and stronger even than the Air Tech Evo. A truly beautiful and rugged classic ice axe.

Then there is the Futura, with the ugly yellow plastic and breaking the rule “all ice axes must have an adze”. Rather than classic beauty, the Futura is all about function and value. How will I chop a step you might ask? With the pick of course. While an adze is occasionally useful, so is a comfortable handle. Also, step chopping is rarely used since the introduction of crampons, especially the newer styles with front points.

While I would not recommend the Futura for serious ice climbs, it has become my absolute favorite axe for snow and glacier climbs. Why do I love this axe? I love the yellow handle. I can plunge the shaft more securely when the snow is firm. The self-arrest grip is superb, and has no adze threatening my face. The grip is warm, and easy on my hand especially when plunging aggressively.

For climbs where I need the ice axe only occasionally, I usually prefer my ultralight axes Corsa, and Corsa Nano-Tech. For long snow and glacier climbs, or any climb where the axe spends more time in my hand than on the back of my pack the Futura is now my choice.

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Ropes

Thursday, May 27th, 2010

Have you thought “what is the lightest or best rope size for a particular climb”? Here are some suggestions for different rope sizes and ways to use them for reducing weight.

Also, we have recently added Monster Ropes from Metolius to our selection. We find them to be a great blend of durability and weight. They also make one of the lightest HALF and TWIN ropes. Ropes rated both HALF and TWIN offer some great options for many different types of climbs and situations.

MONSTER 7.8mm DRY 38g/m

MONSTER 9.2mm DRY 53g/m

MONSTER 9.8mm 64g/m

MONSTER 10.2mm 66g/m

5mm TECH CORD X 60m – STRONG & LIGHT Tag Line (rappel rope)

When considering ropes one of the best ways to be sure you are comparing apples to apples is grams per meter. Why?? Well, it is harder to fudge the weight than the diameter. For example manufacturer “A” will sell a 9.9mm single at 64g/m and manufacturer “B” will market a 9.7mm single at 64g/m. So where is the difference? By using the grams per meter you can cut through some of the fog and compare ropes across manufacturers better. The UIAA has more information about ropes.

ROPE WEIGHTS

60m - Big Wall Extreme SINGLE ROPE (80 grams per meter) – 10 lbs. 9oz.

60m - Heavy SINGLE ROPE (73g) – 9lbs. 10.5oz.

60m - Medium SINGLE ROPE (64g) – 8 lbs. 9oz.

60m - Light SINGLE ROPE (52g) - 6 lbs. 15.4oz.

60m - Heavy HALF ROPE (48g) – 6 lbs. 6.8oz.

60m - Light HALF ROPE & TWIN ROPE (38g) – 5 lbs. 1.4oz.

30M - Light SINGLE ROPE (52g) – 3 lbs. 7.7oz.

60m - 5mm TECH CORD (23g) - 3 lbs. 2oz.

30m - 5mm TECH CORD (23g) - 1 lb. 9oz.

ROPES FOR ROCK

One 30m Single Rope (52g): 3 lb. 7.7oz. - 15m (49’) rappels - 30m (98’) leads - Supports two climbers on 5th class rock, or potentially three climbers on less difficult terrain.

One 30m Light Single Rope (52g), and one 30m Tech Cord(23g): 5 lbs. 1oz. - 30m (98’) rappels - 30m (98’) leads. Supports two climbers on 5th class rock, or potentially three climbers on less difficult terrain - Tech Cord available for pack hauling.

One 60m Light Half & Twin Rope (38g): – 5 lbs. 1.4oz. - 30m (98’) rappels - 30m (98’) leads with two, or three climbers - Potential for pack hauling with two climbers - Ability to protect traverses for leader and one second.

One 60m Light Single Rope (52g): 6 lbs. 15.4oz. - 30m (98’) rappels - 60m (196’) leads with two climbers, or 30m (98’) leads with three climbers.

One 60m Light Single Rope (52g), and one 60m Tech Cord(23g): 10 lbs. 1.4oz. - 60m (196’) rappels - 60m (196’) leads on 5th class rock for two climbers - Can do 30m (98’) leads on 5th class rock with three climbers, or 60m (196’) leads on less difficult terrain for three climbers - Tech Cord available for pack hauling.

Two 60m Light Half & Twin Ropes (38g): 10 lbs. 2.8oz. - 60m (196’) rappels - 60m (196’) leads with two, or three climbers - Potential for pack hauling with two climbers - Ability to protect traverses.

Two 60m Heavy Half Ropes (48g): 12 lbs. 13.6oz. - 60m (196’) rappels - 60m (196’) leads with two, or three climbers - Potential for pack hauling with two climbers - Ability to protect traverses.

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