Ropes

May 27th, 2010

Have you thought “what is the lightest or best rope size for a particular climb”?  Here are some suggestions for different rope sizes and ways to use them for reducing weight.

Also, we have recently added Monster Ropes from Metolius to our selection.  We find them to be a great blend of durability and weight. They also make one of the lightest HALF and TWIN ropes. Ropes rated both HALF and TWIN offer some great options for many different types of climbs and situations.

MONSTER 7.8mm DRY 38g/m

MONSTER 9.2mm DRY 53g/m

MONSTER 9.8mm 64g/m

MONSTER 10.2mm 66g/m

5mm TECH CORD X 60m – STRONG & LIGHT Tag Line (rappel rope)

When considering ropes one of the best ways to be sure you are comparing apples to apples is grams per meter.  Why??  Well, it is harder to fudge the weight than the diameter.  For example manufacturer “A” will sell a 9.9mm single at 64g/m and manufacturer “B” will market a 9.7mm single at 64g/m.  So where is the difference?  By using the grams per meter you can cut through some of the fog and compare ropes across manufacturers better.  The UIAA has more information about ropes.

ROPE WEIGHTS

60m – Big Wall Extreme SINGLE ROPE (80 grams per meter) – 10 lbs.  9oz.

60m – Heavy SINGLE ROPE (73g) 9lbs. 10.5oz.

60m – Medium SINGLE ROPE (64g) – 8 lbs.  9oz.

60m – Light SINGLE ROPE (52g) – 6 lbs.  15.4oz.

60m – Heavy HALF ROPE (48g) – 6 lbs.  6.8oz.

60m – Light HALF ROPE & TWIN ROPE (38g) – 5 lbs.  1.4oz.

30M – Light SINGLE ROPE (52g) – 3 lbs.  7.7oz.

60m – 5mm TECH CORD (23g) – 3 lbs.  2oz.

30m – 5mm TECH CORD (23g) - 1 lb.  9oz.

ROPES FOR ROCK

One 30m Single Rope (52g): 3 lb.  7.7oz. – 15m (49’) rappels – 30m (98’) leads – Supports two climbers on 5th class rock, or potentially three climbers on less difficult terrain.

One 30m Light Single Rope (52g), and one 30m Tech Cord(23g): 5 lbs.  1oz. – 30m (98’) rappels - 30m (98’) leads. Supports two climbers on 5th class rock, or potentially three climbers on less difficult terrain – Tech Cord available for pack hauling.

One 60m Light Half & Twin Rope (38g): – 5 lbs.  1.4oz. – 30m (98’) rappels - 30m (98’) leads with two, or three climbers – Potential for pack hauling with two climbers – Ability to protect traverses for leader and one second.

One 60m Light Single Rope (52g): 6 lbs.  15.4oz. – 30m (98’) rappels – 60m (196’) leads with two climbers, or 30m (98’) leads with three climbers.

One 60m Light Single Rope (52g), and one 60m Tech Cord(23g): 10 lbs.  1.4oz. - 60m (196’) rappels - 60m (196’) leads on 5th class rock for two climbers – Can do 30m (98’) leads on 5th class rock with three climbers, or 60m (196’) leads on less difficult terrain for three climbers – Tech Cord available for pack hauling.

Two 60m Light Half & Twin Ropes (38g): 10 lbs.  2.8oz. – 60m (196’) rappels – 60m (196’) leads with two, or three climbers – Potential for pack hauling with two climbers – Ability to protect traverses.

Two 60m Heavy Half  Ropes (48g): 12 lbs.  13.6oz. – 60m (196’) rappels – 60m (196’) leads with two, or three climbers – Potential for pack hauling with two climbers – Ability to protect traverses.

Grivel Haute Route Crampons

May 18th, 2010

Haute Route crampons with ski-matic binding from Pro Mountain Sports..

When Dan Helmstadter needs his crampons, they have to be solid. And because Dan
doesn’t need crampons very often, he prefers them light and packable.

Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloir ski descent

“I am surprised by how easily they stick to steep neve and ice, they inspire confidence when it is needed, and they are super light and snap on in no time, attributes that make them stand out above the rest as a skiers crampon.” — Dan Helmstadter

Mt Rainier, Central Mowich Face

Western Mountaineering down insulated pants

March 31st, 2010

NEW from Western MountaineeringFLASH Down Insulated Pants and FLIGHT Down Insulated Pants.

Ideal for cold weather camping. Get ready to cook! An interesting alternative to a four season  sleeping bag. Now you can be toasty warm in camp without having to own a dedicated winter weight sleeping bag. A truly versatile piece of equipment.

Flight pants tight_1

Flash Pants : Our Flash pants were designed to provide more lower body warmth than a thick pair of fleece bottoms with less weight and substantially less packed volume than any synthetic alternative. The average weight for a pair of these pants is roughly 180 grams and will compress down to about half the size of your waterbottle. What a great way to lighten your pack and raise the comfort level on your next trip! These pants are made in USA with 850 fill power goose down and an extremely lightweight nylon ripstop shell material. Features include an adjustable waist belt, re-inforced seat material, and elastic ankle closures to seal in the warmth.

* Made in USA
* Lightweight ripstop nylon with water repellent finish
* 850+ Fill power goose down
* Re-inforced fabric in the seat area
* Adjustable waist belt
* Elastic ankle cuff closures
* Average total weight 180 grams 7 oz. per pair

Flight pants_1

Flight Pants: Our Flight pants offer more warmth and added weather protection to keep you in comfort mode when the mercury drops and the weather conditions become more challenging. Winter protection for your lower body doesn’t have to weigh 700 + grams or take up more space than one water bottle. The Flight pants are stuffed plump with 850 fill power goose down and weigh just 310 grams per pair. For added protection against moisture and abrasion, these pants feature Gore Windstopper laminated outer shell fabric on the seat and knees. Microfiber outer shell fabric is utilized for the rest of the garment for increased breathability and reduced weight. Features include an adjustable waist belt, adjustable ankle closure with draft protection and dual full length, two-way separating YKK coil side zippers with locking sliders.

* Made in USA
* Microfiber shell fabric with DWR finish
* Gore Windstopper fabric protecting seat & knees
* 850+ Fill power goose down
* Full length side zips, YKK two way reverse #5 coil zippers
* Adjustable waist belt
* Elastic ankle cuffs with adjustable Velcro closure
* Windstopper snow covers at each end of zippers
* Average total weight 295 grams (10.5oz) per pair